Our Cat's Place – Living With Cats

Happy New Year from Our Cat’s Place!

One of my resolutions this year is to be more like my cats. They always seems to be happy and on top of things. Here’s some food for thought….

Cheers,

Beth

Image by Getty Images via @daylife

Most cat lovers know that black cats should be kept strictly in the house during the times just before and after Halloween. But there are dangers to all cats during this holiday season, both outside and in. Here are eight things every cat owner should be aware of:

1. Chocolate can be toxic to cats. Because there is so much candy available around Halloween, it is very important to keep it out of your cat’s way. If kitty does happen to eat some chocolate, please contact your veterinarian right away for advice. The darker the chocolate, the more toxic it is.

2. Curious cats can get burned easily. Think twice about having any lit candles around the house. Although candles can lend a lot of atmosphere to a darkened house, it can be very easy for a cat to get into them, which could be disastrous. If you must have candles, keep them in a room where your cat will not be going.

3. Carved pumpkins start to go bad quickly. Don’t let your cat get too close to a pumpkin that has been carved and sitting out for a while. The smell and taste might be very tempting for him, but a raw carved pumpkin can start to grow mold and bacteria within a few hours, which could give your cat stomach problems or diarrhea.

4. Decorations should be kept out of reach. Please keep your Halloween decorations to areas where your cat cannot reach them. Foil, plastic, batteries, electric cords, fake hair and “spider webs” and other typical decorative items may look like cat toys to your cat, but they were not meant to be chewed on and could harm your cat if he tries to bite or swallow them.

5. Keep your cat inside on the big night. Halloween activities are disruptive, and can be loud and scary for a cat, even one who normally goes outside. Many cats run away on Halloween. Please don’t let yours be one of them!

6. Your cat may prefer a nice, quiet hiding place away from the noise. If you are expecting a lot of “trick or treaters” at your house, consider letting your cat stay in a quiet bedroom or den, where she won’t get frightened by the noise and all the strange people coming in and out. Cats who are scared can tend to bolt away, and you do not want to risk losing your cat in the crowds at night.

7. Watch out for candy wrappers! If you or your kids are munching on wrapped candy, please keep the wrappers away from your cat. Kitty will find the look and feel very exciting, but if they eat one it could cause serious damage to his internal organs.

8. Don’t force your cat to wear a costume. Cats look adorable in Halloween costumes, but not every cat enjoys wearing them. If your cat is one of these, then please let him go without it, he will be much happier and more comfortable. If your cat does seem to like his costume, make sure that he can get around easily and his movement is not restricted.

These are just a few things you can do to help ensure that you and your cat have a happy and healthy Halloween.

Find many more great tips on cat behavior and caring for cats in Mary Matthew’s book “Ultimate Cat Secrets“.

All the best to you and your feline friends,
Beth

February 3, 2011 is Chinese New Year. In China it may be the year of the rabbit, but in Vietnam it’s the Year of the Cat!

Here at Our Cat’s Place, we think it’s the year of the cat every year, but this is a great opportunity to shout out our love of all things feline.

Care For Cats is sponsoring a series of events across Canada related to sharing information about cats and helping to promote adoption, spaying, and good health care for our beloved felines.

Check it out at the Care For Cats website!

all the best,

Beth

By Tom Woodcock

How your cat sees the Christmas tree

Christmas is a beautiful time of year, but it can be a dangerous time for cats. As you decorate, their environment changes, posing new objects to be explored and new risks to be assessed. Is that flashing Santa ornament friend or foe?  Where does that big tree lead? Do those boxes make a good new scratching post? It is important to understand how your cat will view the changes at Christmas time, so that you can anticipate and not punish his natural curiosity. It is also important to be aware of any dangers that could be introduced to your cat at this time of year.

The number one source of curiosity and amusement for your cat, of course, will likely be the Christmas tree. If your cat loves to climbs trees out of doors, then you can bet he is going to try scaling any tree that you bring into your house. Most cats won’t get very far, but it is not uncommon for them to topple the tree with their energetic scrambling. If this happens, you risk not just injury to your cat but also damage to any nearby furniture and gifts. Make sure that your Christmas Tree is well supported and on a flat, stable surface.

Pine needles from natural Christmas Trees are another health hazard for your cat. Fallen needles are sharp, and can easily embed themselves in your cat’s paws. Sweep up fallen needles on a regular basis.

In addition to the Christmas Tree, there are many other plants that pose a risk to your cat’s health. Some plants are toxic to animals, and many of these are unfortunately often brought into the home at Christmas time. These include Mistletoe, Holly and Lillies.

When decorating your house for Christmas, remember that cats are highly sensitive to changes in their environment, and will be both naturally cautious and curious.

Dangling baubles and ornaments may seem like the ideal entertainment for a playful cat… the way they move and catch the light will draw fun loving kitties like a moth to a flame. However, cheap glass baubles can break easily, and the shards of glass can cause a great deal of harm to your cat. Avoid hanging ornaments from the lowest branches of the tree where they are most likely to catch your cat’s eye and skip any ornaments that are extremely fragile.

Other decorations may not seem so appealing to your cat. For example, flashing lights or musical ornaments may frighten your cat, especially if they stop and start suddenly. If your cat seems frightened, begins to hide, starts urinating outside of the litter tray or displays any other symptoms of stress, remove the offending decorations immediately. While we are on the topic of things that might frighten your cat, consider how the noise level of your house changes at Christmas time. Just as is the case on bonfire night, your cat may be frightened of sudden loud noises often heard at Christmas such as crackers, poppers or bottle of Champagne being opened. Loud music or singing may also make them nervous so you might want to monitor the volume of Slade and SingStar if your cat is used to napping in a quiet house.

While humans may be able to deal with over indulging in sweets and treats at Christmas with the help of some indigestion medicine, the consequences to your cat from eating the wrong kinds of foods can be more severe. Don’t leave food or snacks lying around where your cat can get to them (and that’s just about anywhere!) and clean up leftovers immediately. Foods such as chocolate, coffee and chicken bones are all particularly dangerous to cats, while snacks covered in salt can leave your cat dehydrated. You should also take care to not allow your cat to indulge in an alcoholic tipple from any glasses left out. And although it may be tempting to treat your cat to his own Christmas dinner, serve him a gourmet cat food choice rather than a portion of human food as any rich food that he is not accustomed to can cause vomiting or diarrhea.

During the festivities of the season, pay particular attention to clearing up any discarded wrapping paper, ribbon or other small objects that might get lodged in your cat’s throat. Christmas cracker toys and foil sweet wrappers are particularly tempting to cats, but pose a choking hazard due to their size. Tossing around a crumpled up ball of wrapping paper can be a fun way to play with your cat, but never let them play with it unattended, and take it away if you see him start to chew on it.

Keep a close eye on your cat during the Christmas season, to make sure he stays out of trouble and always ensure that he always has a quiet, cosy place to retreat to if all that partying gets a bit much for him.

If you want more great tips, advice or Free Cat information the visit The Cat Pet Shop’s Blog If you need a Cat Tree for you cat to climb and play on there are some great deals at The Cat Pet Shop.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tom_Woodcock
http://EzineArticles.com/?Cat-Proof-Your-House-This-Christmas&id=3296337
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As the companion of a cat who is living with feline kidney disease, there are many small things that you can do on a daily basis, that will help your furry friend feel better, and be more comfortable.  This can do a great deal to improve his overall quality of life, and help extend your time together. 

Environment

- Try to protect your cat from stressful situations, and give him a calm and warm place to stay.  Provide him with blankets and a warm sofa or bed to lie on.  If you have a fireplace, he will most likely gravitate to it when you light a fire.  Make sure that he doesn’t get too cold, and please keep him safely inside the house!

- Handle your cat gently.  Cats with chronic kidney disease tend to feel nauseous, so soft and light hugs and strokes that won’t jar his stomach are best.

- A cat who is not feeling his best may not groom as much as he should.  You can help by brushing and combing him regularly, but always remember to be gentle, especially if he is receiving any injections or subcutaneous fluids.

Food and Water

- Watch how much your cat eats and drinks each day.  This will be useful for your vet to know at your next appointment.

- If your cat doesn’t’ seem to be eating enough, it may help to place his food in a part of the house that is quiet and peaceful, so that he can relax while he eats.

-  Canned food will be more appealing to your cat if you warm it up a little in the microwave before serving, especially if it has been stored in the refrigerator.

-  If your cat is older, he may have problems chewing his food.  You can help by shaping his food into more of a mound, rather then leaving it flat in his dish.  This makes the food easier for your cat to access.

-  Clean the food dishes well each day.  The smell of stale food can be very unpleasant, especially to a cat that is not feeling well.

-  Since drinking enough water is crucial for the health of a cat with kidney disease, you can help by having two or more bowls of fresh water in different part of the house.  Make sure that the bowls are cleaned and refilled every day, since water can collect dust, bacteria, and dead insects if it is left standing for too long.   Depending on the quality of the water in your area, you might consider giving your cat bottled water instead, since it won’t have as much of the chemicals that are often found in tap water.

- Cats often prefer to drink running water.   He may be attracted to the sink or toilet bowl.  If this is the case, please make sure that these are kept spotlessly clean.  Also, do not use chemical cleaners or deodorizers that can poison your cat.  You may want to get an automatic water dispenser that delivers a steady stream of flowing water.  Some cats seem to prefer these, and it can encourage them to drink more.  If your cat has an upset stomach from the kidney disease, serve the water at room temperature rather than cold.

Mobility

- As feline kidney disease progresses, your cat’s potassium level might become low.  This can make it difficult for him to jump into his favorite places, or even to climb stairs easily.

- You can help by placing small boxes, ramps, or “pet stairs” next to the sofa, bed, or windowsill, so that your cat can still access his special spots.

-  If your cat has difficulty climbing into his litter box, look for a new one with lower sides, so that he can continue his regular routine more easily.

-  Encourage your cat to play if he is still able, but keep in mind that he probably gets tired faster.  Play with him as much as he is able, but be careful not to overdo it!

And mostly, give your cat plenty of affection and love.  Just be there for him when he needs you, and let him know that you care.  Value every precious minute that you can spend together!

to the health of your cats,

Beth

Related Posts:

Feline Kidney Disease – Common Causes and Symptoms

What You Need to Know About Cat Food For Kidney Disease

How to Get a Cat to Eat when he has Kidney Disease

Treating a Cat With Kidney Disease Using Subcutaneous Fluids

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If your cat has been diagnosed with CRF (Chronic Renal Failure), he or she may at some point need to receive subcutaneous fluids in order to fight dehydration.  Listen carefully to your veterinarian’s recommendations on this!  It will depend on how fast your cat’s condition progresses, but a cat with kidney disease can easily become dehydrated and lose enormous amounts of weight, and Sub-Q fluids can be an excellent way to help your cat feel better and to give him a higher quality of life for his remaining time.

Many cat owners get nervous at the thought of doing this at home.  However, this is usually the most convenient way to do it, since the fluids are often needed every day.  Be sure to get instruction from your vet on how to administer the fluid.  Most veterinarian offices will demonstrate the process step by step, and help you through the first couple of times so that you can become familiar with the process and it will not seem as strange or frightening.

When our cat Felix reached the stage in his disease when subcutaneous fluids became necessary, both my husband and I attended a training and demo session at our vet’s office, along with Felix.  We were instructed in how to prepare the bag of fluid properly, so that the fluid would run through the tubes freely.  We were able to practice holding Felix the right way and inserting the needle correctly so that the fluid ran under his skin, as it should.  This was the most difficult part for me.  Because Felix’s skin had become dried out, it was very easy for the needle to slip under his skin and out again, with the fluid running out over his fur.  It took some practice, and some patience from both Felix and us, but after a few tries it got much easier.  Having the technician there to instruct us was critical.

At home things were a little trickier.  Whereas at the vet’s office we had the nice high examination table to put Felix on, at home we used a desk.  And instead of hanging the bag of fluid on the special rack at the vet’s office, we used a hanger, which worked just fine once we did it a couple of times.  It was harder at first to get Felix to sit still while we set up the bag and tubes, and inserted the needle under his skin (my husband turned out be much better at this part than I was!)   Felix would struggle to get away, sometimes causing the needle to fall out, and then we would have to start all over.  But after a few days the whole process because pretty routine.  In fact, Felix seemed to realize that the fluids were making him feel better.  He would stand eagerly awaiting treatment as we set everything up, and he would even purr while the fluid ran through the needle and under his skin!

It was easy to see that the subcutaneous fluids were really helping our beloved cat feel better, and this alone made it worth the effort.  Many cats have lived for months and even years on fluid therapy, and it remains an excellent treatment for a cat with kidney disease.  With a little practice, this is a convenient treatment that can greatly improve your cat’s quality of life, and help to extend your precious time with him.

to the health of your cats,

Beth

Related Posts:

Feline Kidney Disease – Common Causes and Symptoms

What You Need to Know About Cat Food For Kidney Disease

How to Get a Cat to Eat when he has Kidney Disease

Living Day to Day With Feline Kidney Disease

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Image via Wikipedia

When a cat has kidney disease, he may feel very lethargic and may not feel much like eating.  And to add to the problem, the foods that are often prescribed for cats with kidney disease tend to be blander and therefore less appealing to the cat’s senses.  So because you definitely want your cat to keep his weight up, you might need to get a little more creative with his feeding.  Here are a few tips.

• First, do your best to get your cat to eat the special kidney diet that your veterinarian has prescribed.  These foods are lower in phosphorus than regular food, so they produce less waste and are kinder to your cat’s kidneys.  The same goes for homemade cat food.  Although this is probably the most nutritious food you can be giving your cat, especially when he is sick, he may not be interested in trying anything new right now.

• The most critical thing to remember with feline kidney disease is that getting him to eat any food at all is much better than his not eating!   Look up the ingredients on any food that you buy and try to find those with the lowest phosphorus content.

• Your cat may respond to a little catnip sprinkled into his food.  Catnip has a strong smell and taste, and most cats can’t resist it!

• Try warming up the food a little in your microwave.  If the food is heated, the smell and flavor will become slightly stronger, which makes it more appealing to your cat.  Stir or mash up the food before serving it, to make sure it isn’t too hot.

• While you are giving food to your cat, try holding her and touching or petting her gently.  Cats usually respond well to physical affection and encouragement, and this can help put her in a better state of mind, more receptive to your suggestions that she eat something.

• You can also try adding a little strong flavored liquid to your cat’s food.  Things that work well are the water from a can of tuna, clam juice, or the liquid from a can of anchovies.   In addition to enhancing the scent and flavor of the food, this also adds moisture, which helps your cat stay better hydrated.

• Rub a tiny bit of warm canned food onto your cat’s paw.  This will get him to groom himself by licking the food off.   If you have a small bowl of the same food right there, he may go from licking it off his paw to eating it out of the bowl.

• Something else that can work well for a cat with kidney disease is to feed him by hand.  Put just a small amount of food on the palm of your hand, and let your cat smell it and lick it before deciding to eat.  Sometimes just the extra love and affection that you give your cat at this time can make a big difference in his appetite.

There are other medical options that you may want to discuss with your vet if you cannot get your cat to eat with these other ideas.  He may be able to give you an appetite stimulant, which can be a good short-term solution.  Another thing that often helps a cat feel better and more like eating is subcutaneous fluids, that help your cat to be better hydrated.  If all else fails you may need to feed your cat with a syringe for a time.  Your vet is the best person to advise you on these alternatives.

to the health of our cats,

Beth

Related Posts:

Feline Kidney Disease – Common Causes and Symptoms

What You Need to Know About Cat Food For Kidney Disease

Treating a Cat With Kidney Disease Using Subcutaneous Fluids

Living Day to Day With Feline Kidney Disease

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Image via Wikipedia

If your cat is diagnosed with feline kidney disease, one of the first things your veterinarian will probably recommend is a change in diet. Many studies have been done on this subject, and there is a wide range of opinions about what is the best cat food for kidney disease. Here are a few things every cat owner should know.

One school of thought is that for a cat with kidney problems, protein in the diet should be restricted. However, this idea is very controversial, even among veterinarians. Many feel that this thinking came out about because in humans, as well as in dogs, a high level of protein can indeed be linked to kidney failure. However, cats have different nutritional needs, and rely on protein to a great extent. What does really cause problems is the high phosphorus content in meat. Unfortunately, restricting phosphorus often implies restricting protein as well.

The best thing you can do if you find yourself in this situation is to have a very open discussion with your vet about the pros and cons of restricting protein. In addition, do plenty of your own research. New findings are always coming out, so be sure you have the latest information.

Also, at this point having enough water in the diet is absolutely critical to your cat’s health. Canned food is a better cat food for kidney disease, because it will provide more moisture than dry, and will help to prevent your cat from getting dehydrated, which is another very serious danger to a cat with kidney disease.

In the end though, what is really critical is that your cat eats, period! When a cat has kidney disease, he doesn’t feel good, and doesn’t feel much like eating. He can easily lose weight, which will only make his condition worse. You may at some point need to have appetite stimulants prescribed for your cat in order to get him to eat. The saddest part of this is that appetite stimulants are among the worst smelling and bitterest tasting of feline medicines, and even getting him to take those can be a huge struggle. So most importantly, just get your cat to eat! Even if it means trying new foods, or tricking him into eating with a treat or catnip, just do it!

One of the best things to try is making your own cat food at home. This provides the best nutrition of all, but here again, this is only effective if your cat will actually eat it. If she is not willing to give it a try, don’t force the issue, but this is at least worth making a good attempt. There are plenty of excellent books available that provide recipes for homemade cat food. Ask your veterinarian as well, and he/she may also have some good suggestions.

Understanding cat food for kidney disease can take a little time and effort, and you may need to try a number of different foods to see what works out best with your cat. But having the best possible diet can go a long way toward management of his kidney disease and improvement of his quality of life.

to the health of your cats,

Beth

Related Posts:

Feline Kidney Disease – Common Causes and Symptoms

How to Get a Cat to Eat when he has Kidney Disease

Treating a Cat With Kidney Disease Using Subcutaneous Fluids

Living Day to Day With Feline Kidney Disease

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Felix: April 11, 1995 to November 4, 2009

Feline kidney disease is one of the most common cat ailments.  It usually occurs in older cats, but it has been known to happen at almost any age.

Although not all causes and symptoms of cat kidney failure are well known, veterinarians have been able to identify some of the reasons why the disease occurs, some of the things to watch for, and a few things that can be done to help prevent it in your cat, and help him to live a longer, fuller life.

Causes of Kidney Disease in Cats

One of the most frequent contributors to the development of feline kidney disease is lack of enough water in the diet.  Remember that cats originated in Africa, and are genetically evolved to live in a very dry climate.  In such a habitat, most of the water in the diet comes from the prey that the cat hunts and eats.  As a result, cats do not tend to drink enough water.  Many cat owners feed their cats strictly a dry food diet, which can cause them to become dehydrated over time.  This is hard on the kidneys, and if continued can help to cause kidney disease.   And, I’m afraid this was probably one of the causes of Felix’s disease.  If I had been more aware of a cat’s need for moisture in the diet, I would have been feeding canned food as well.  Since becoming better informed I have switched Eric’s diet to include canned food twice a day.

Another thing that has been linked to disease of the kidneys is when the cat has dental or periodontal problems.  Good hygiene is a very important part of taking care of a cat’s teeth.  If the teeth or gums get swollen with infection, the toxic substances leach into the cat’s bloodstream and eventually get into his kidneys.  Although the kidney’s function is to filter out toxins in the blood, the antibodies produced to fight the infection can accumulate over time, causing disease and lasting damage.

Finally, there is some indication that the vaccine for feline distemper may be related to development of swelling in the kidneys, which probably contributes to the cause of disease. Keep in mind that your cat does not need distemper shots every year.  Talk about this with your veterinarian to make sure you have the latest information about vaccine recommendations.  In fact, as your vet will probably tell you, if your cat has feline kidney disease, he should not be given any shots whatsoever.

Symptoms of Kidney Disease in Cats

It’s a good idea to watch your cat for any signs of kidney trouble. Early detection can be extremely valuable, and would allow you to get a head start on any treatments put in place by your vet.  It is generally recommended to start testing your cat’s blood for signs of kidney disease once he reaches the age of about seven.   In addition, you can do your part at home by observing your cat’s behavior and appearance.

One of the first and most noticeable symptoms of the disease is an increase in drinking and in urination.  Keep an eye on your cat, especially as he ages.  If you notice him drinking more water than normal, or visiting the litter box to urinate more often, you should talk to your veterinarian.  She will most likely recommend a blood test for your cat, so that any disorder can be positively identified.    There are several conditions that can cause increased drinking and peeing, so it’s important to find out what is going on in your cat’s case!

Other symptoms that occur as a cat’s kidney disease becomes more serious are lack of interest in eating, weight loss, vomiting, and worsening quality of his coat.  These symptoms normally start to happen only after the disease has progressed significantly, and we did see all of these in Felix during the last few months of his life.   So again, do your best to detect any signs of problems in your cat, and see your veterinarian right away if you notice something wrong.  With feline kidney disease, time truly is of the essence!

To the health of your cats,

Beth

Related Posts:

What You Need to Know About Cat Food For Kidney Disease

How to Get a Cat to Eat when he has Kidney Disease

Treating a Cat With Kidney Disease Using Subcutaneous Fluids

Living Day to Day With Feline Kidney Disease

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Felix: April 11, 1995 to November 4, 2009

It’s a sad anniversary for my family and me. Our beloved cat Felix died a year ago today of kidney failure.

In his honor, this month I’m creating a few posts about kidney disease in felines, hoping to help cat owners stay informed.

Unfortunately, this is a very common problem. It is especially likely in older cats, however, cats of any age can be diagnosed with kidney disease. Once the disease has started, it cannot be cured, it can only be monitored and treated through a variety of means. And the sooner the condition is caught and diagnosed, the more effective the treatments will be, and the more likely your cat is to have a fuller, and higher quality life.

Felix was only fourteen. My husband, daughter and I, and his brother Eric still miss him dearly.

Here’s to you Felix!

Related Posts:

Feline Kidney Disease – Common Causes and Symptoms

What You Need to Know About Cat Food For Kidney Disease

How to Get a Cat to Eat when he has Kidney Disease

Treating a Cat With Kidney Disease Using Subcutaneous Fluids

Living Day to Day With Feline Kidney Disease

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My family always loves this time of year. We get all excited about Halloween coming, planning our costumes and our daughter making trick or treating plans with her friends. She’s going to be the Easter Bunny this year. My husband is thinking Santa Claus. I don’t know, maybe we just don’t have a very good grasp on the holiday calendar (lol). As for me, well, I was thinking about dusting off my old Catwoman costume – what else? (Never mind that I wore it two years in a row already. It’s a totally cool costume and I look great in it!)

Now, what about Eric? Our big orange tabby cat? Just went browsing around the web and found this picture of a swashbuckling cutie on Amazon. I wonder if Eric has ever had Three Musketeers fantasies? Puss in Boots anyone? Well, it’s a thought anyway. Only two weeks to go, and counting!

Have Fun!

Beth
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Having moved a few times with a few different cats, both within the same neighborhood and to a new country, I have taken advice from a variety of sources, and have seen what works. I’d like to share some tips and tricks here that can help to make moving with your cat a smoother and more pleasant experience. Since this is a lot of information, I’ve split this into three parts: Preparing for the Move, During the Move, and Settling In to Your New Home.

Part 3 – Settling In to Your New Home

When you arrive at your new home, bring your cat inside and get her situated before you start moving your own things in. If this was a short move and you were able to bring your cat’s things over ahead of time, that’s great! If not, choose a room for her, like a spare bedroom or enclosed den. Make sure any windows are closed and that the door to the room latches securely so that your cat cannot get out.

By putting your cat’s familiar things in the room – food dishes, toys, litter box, scratching post, blankets, etc, your cat will begin to feel at home. Another great idea is to use some Feliway Diffusers or Cat Pheremone Spray in the room to give it that “happy cat” smell. Most cats will relax quickly in this environment, and you will be able to get started with moving your things in. Just be sure your cat is securely in the room until the movers are done and the doors to the house can also be kept closed.

Your cat might prefer to stay in his special room for a while at first, and may even be reluctant to explore the rest of the house for the first day or two. Remember that cats need to be able to establish their territory, and may not be willing to venture out into unknown places right away.

Once your cats do start wandering around the house, try to keep them inside at least for a time. I have been told that it can take cats up to a month to reset the internal “homing device” that lets then find their way home, and we have all heard stories about cats showing up in their old neighborhoods, weeks or even months after they have moved. Don’t let your cat be one of them!

Feliway is also quite useful around the house as a whole, especially if you have more than one cat. If your multiple cats are trying to establish territory, it could potentially lead to fighting and/or spraying. The cat pheromones in Feliway will help to calm the cats so that they are less likely to have problems.

Another thing to watch for in your new home is hiding places, where your cat may go in order to feel safe until the space becomes more familiar to him. Closets, fireplaces, underneath furniture, and other smaller spaces are all likely hiding spots. After one move, when Eric seemed to have disappeared, we combed the house top to bottom, until we finally discovered that he had climbed part way up the chimney. A few hours, a dish of food, and a lot of coaxing later, a very gray cat finally emerged (Eric is an orange tabby!). Cats are masters of finding places to squeeze into!

Once you have a chance, look for a good veterinarian in your new neighborhood. Neighbors, local acquaintances, or even your old vet can be great sources of recommendations. But if you don’t know where to go, check out some of the review sites like yelp.com or local websites for reviews. Feel free to visit and interview a few different vets in the area if you have more than one to choose from. You should be sure you feel comfortable both with the doctors and the offices. Once you have chosen, bring in your records from your previous vet, or have them faxed or mailed. Schedule a checkup so that you and your cat can get more acquainted with the new vet. Also remember to change your address on any microchip registrations, pet insurance, or anyone else that needs your pet’s information.

Cats generally adapt very well to new places once they have a little time to get settled in. A happy cat truly helps to make your new house feel like home!

See Part 1 of this series: Preparing For The Move

See Part 2 of this series: During The Move

See my Squidoo Lens – How to Move House With Your Cat

Having moved a few times with a few different cats, both within the same neighborhood and to a new country, I have taken advice from a variety of sources, and have seen what works. I’d like to share some tips and tricks here that can help to make moving with your cat a smoother and more pleasant experience. Since this is a lot of information, I’ve split this into three parts: Preparing for the Move, During the Move, and Settling In to Your New Home.

Part 2 – During The Move

Depending on the length of your move, you may be moving your cat with a short car trip (or even a walk!), a long car trip, or maybe by plane.  Each type of move can have it’s own challenges, and I’d like to talk about some ways that you can help make any move with your cat go more smoothly.

If this is a short move, to a new place not far from your current home, there are a few things you can do that will help make it easier for your cat to adjust.

If you are able, try to arrange for your cat to stay with a friend while you are moving. Just like with packing, the actual move can be disconcerting to a cat, who feels a sense of ownership in his home, and he may attempt to run away during this time. If he can stay somewhere else during the move, he can avoid a lot of stress. Then, once you have moved your things, your cat will be able to see and smell his familiar possessions in your new home, which will help him feel more at ease.

However, even if your cat will need to move right along with you, here is a process that has worked well for me, and I recommend doing this if possible.

Before you start moving furniture and your belongings, choose a small room in your new home. It should be entirely enclosed once the door is shut, and be sure the door latches tight. An extra bedroom works very well for this purpose. Them, before moving your own things, set this room up with your cat’s food and water, toys, and litter box (make sure the litter box is on the opposite side of the room from his food and water). Allow your cat to wander around this room, getting familiar with the new place. The presence of his familiar things will help him feel at home. Close the door and have your cat stay in his “special room” until after you have finished moving your things in.

If you will be taking your cat on a long car trip, it’s especially important that you have a good quality carrier. Remember that you will be using the carrier not only as a place for your cat to ride during the trip, but also to carry him in and out of your lodging at night. Be sure that the carrier is very secure, stays closed, and is roomy enough for your cat to move around in. Some carriers come with a soft fleece or carpet floor, which help to keep her comfortable and cozy. If not, it’s a nice idea to put a blanket or towel inside. You may even want to look for one of the carriers that have clips for a seat belt. This way, the carrier will not slip around and will be held in place even in the event of an accident.

If your cat isn’t used to riding in a carrier, try to get him accustomed to it before the trip, by taking him out on a few shorter trips ahead of time. However, some cats never seem to enjoy riding in the car or carrier, and may continue to complain loudly for some time. It may help to put something of yours inside, like an old T-shirt that will smell familiar and help him get settled more quickly.

Normally it is best to have your cat stay inside the carrier for the entire time that you are driving. This helps to protect her from getting hurt in case of an accident, and prevents her from suddenly leaping up on the driver’s neck. But the truth is that this is not always practical. Since cats usually dislike driving or being in their carriers for such a long period, once you are on the road you may want to let him get out and find his own place to settle down. With our two cats, we found this to be the easiest for everyone. Eric tends to make his spot under one of the front seats, while Felix generally preferred to ride on our daughter’s lap in the back seat. If your cats can manage to find a place where they are happiest, the drive will be far more pleasant. Just make sure he stays away from the driver.

It may even be a good idea to put your cat in a harness that attaches to his collar, so that you can hold onto it if you need to open the car for a moment. However, it’s even better to put the cat back in the carrier before you open the car door. You absolutely do not want to risk having your cat bolt away in an unfamiliar place!

We’re found that our cats would not eat much or use the litter box while traveling. However, it’s good to offer some food and water, and litter pan just in case. Usually our cats would have only a few bites of kibble when offered, and would have their main meals at the hotel.

Likewise with using the litter box. Our veterinarian assured me that a cat can “hold it” for up to 12 hours with no ill effect. Once we stopped at our hotel for the night, food, drink, and box were the first orders of business. You may want to check out the hotel room for possible hiding places. We had a couple of incidents of coming back from dinner to have the cat nowhere to be seen, then find him hiding behind the bed and having to coax him out, with difficulty. Putting some rolled up towels to block entrance to this spot solved the problem. However, your cat may still look for a safe spot behind the curtains or in a closet. Cats are masters of hiding when they want to be!

I’ll reiterate this – be sure your cat has ID! At least a collar with tag if nothing else, and be sure the tag has a number where you can be reached, not your old number at your previous house! Again, micro chipping is an excellent thing to do if you have not already, and make sure your cat is registered!

If your cat is just not able to adapt to being on the road, this is where the Bach “Rescue Remedy” or even the tranquilizer from your vet may come in handy. Try rubbing a couple drops of Rescue Remedy inside your nervous cat’s ear to see if that will calm him down. This is effective for most cats, and it works well for our Eric. if this doesn’t work, then try giving him just a bit of the tranquilizer. When we traveled across the country with Felix in the car, he spent the entire first day meowing loudly, and unfortunately he was not helped by the Rescue Remedy as Eric was. Not only was this very unpleasant for all of us, but it was obvious that Felix was stressed and tired, since he had been unable to sleep at all in the car. That night we gave him just a fraction of one of the pills his vet had prescribed for us, and it worked like a charm. Felix got a good night sleep, was relaxed and happy the next day, and then he settled down for the rest of the six day trip, never even needing another pill. Of course, every cat is different, and you may find a different solution for your cat.

If you will be moving with your cat by plane, here are some things to keep in mind. I flew with Eric from San Francisco to Indianapolis, en route to Toronto, with a stop in Denver for good measure! Eric did great, but I was very thankful for the advice I had been given from our veterinarian and a few friends with experience flying with their pets.

Be sure you have made the necessary arrangements with the airline, and that they have approved your cat for traveling in the passenger area if this what you intend to do. Most airlines allow only one animal per flight, so it’s important to make sure you are on their record! Get an airline approved carrier, one that will fit under the seat ahead of you. Your pet carrier will count as a carry on item, so make sure you are still within the airline limits and that you will be able to check your other things. I brought along a large backpack for my trip with Eric, and put my purse in it along with some food for Eric, a bag of litter and a very small litter tray. This way I was able to bring a “personal” bag as well as the carrier, and still have everything I needed available.

I checked in at the counter and informed the agent that I was bringing my cat along in the passenger area. She checked and saw that I had made the arrangements ahead of time, so everything went very smoothly.

Going through security, you will need to take your cat out of the carrier. This is where a cat harness is critical! If you are simply holding your cat in your arms, and he gets spooked by the noise or crowds, he could easily slip away and get lost in the masses. I’ve been told this happens on occasion. But if you have your cat securely in a harness and you are holding tightly to both the harness and the cat, he will not be able to get away, and you should have no problem at all. I could tell that Eric was nervous, but he knew that I was holding him tightly and never even tried to escape.

Once you are on the plane, place the carrier under the seat in front of you for the flight. You will not want to take your cat out while flying, but you can lean over to give her a few reassuring words. I found that once we were in the air, Eric relaxed and seemed very comfortable during the trip.

During our stopover, I took Eric to a large bathroom stall and tried setting up the litter box and food for him. But like on our long car trips, he preferred to wait until we got to our destination.

Overall, with a little preparation, traveling with your cat can be done fairly easily, and whichever way you are using can work very well.

See Part 1 of this series – Preparing for the Move

See Part 3 of this series – Settling In To Your New Home

See my Squidoo Lens – How to Move House With Your Cat

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Having moved a few times with a few different cats, both within the same neighborhood and to a new country, I have taken advice from a variety of sources, and have seen what works. I’d like to share some tips and tricks here that can help to make moving with your cat a smoother and more pleasant experience. Since this is a lot of information, I’ve split this into three parts: Preparing for the Move, During the Move, and Settling In to Your New Home.

Part 1 – Preparing For The Move

If you are moving to an entirely new area, or especially to a new country, there are a few “official” things that you will need to take care of before you move, in order to ensure that your cat is able to come easily to your new home without the inconvenience of delay or quarantine.

First, check with the new area to see if there are any documentation requirements for getting in. In our case, when we moved with our cats Felix and Eric from the United States to Canada, we found out that we would need certificates of health as well as documentation of rabies vaccines for our cats. This was easily taken care of with a quick trip to our vet, but if we had not known about these requirements, we could have ended up spending time at the border making phone calls or even needing to leave our cats behind while we sorted things out. This may also be the case if you are moving within the US to a different state.

Also, find out if your new area has any licensing requirements. A city government office or web site should be able to help you with any of these questions. For us, when we lived in California, cat licenses were not needed. However, once we arrived in Toronto we discovered that they were.

If you are moving to a different area and will need to go to a new veterinarian, be sure to obtain copies of your pet’s medical records for your new vet. You could also check with your current vet to see if they could fax your pet’s records once you have arrived in your new home. Most veterinarian offices use faxes, and this was what we were able to do. This will save you from having to carry and keep track of your cat’s records during the move.

If it will be a long trip and your cat tends to be a nervous traveler, ask your vet about possible solutions. S/he may want to prescribe medication for him, but in most cases this should only be used if really necessary, and there are some excellent natural alternatives available. My favorite is “Rescue Remedy”, by Bach Flower Essences. Just a drop or two rubbed on the inside of your cat’s ear or sprinkled into her water dish will have a calming, relaxing effect (you can even use it yourself if you want!). It may be a good idea to try this out ahead of time to be sure that it works for your cat. In our case, Rescue Remedy worked beautifully for Eric, but seemed to have no effect at all on Felix. So just to be prepared, our vet prescribed Felix a small quantity of tranquilizers, which turned out to be a tremendous help later during our trip.

If you are traveling by car, and the trip will take more than one day, make your overnight arrangements ahead of time and make sure that any hotels you stay at allow cats. It’s a good idea to call the hotel to make the reservations yourself, rather than relying on a Website. Our drive from San Francisco to Toronto took six days, and although most of my chosen accommodations worked out perfectly, there was one place that told us after we arrived, that although their entry on the web said “Pets Allowed”, what they really meant was “dogs only”. We were not allowed to stay there with our cat, and they did not give us a refund. I had to call half a dozen other hotels in the area to find one that did let us stay there, felines and all. I also suggested to the first place that they might want to update their listing!

If you will be traveling to your new home by air, make arrangements ahead of time if your cat will be going along. Many airlines allow only one pet in the cabin per flight; so if you are traveling with more than one cat, check around to make sure you can be accommodated. Also, check with the airlines to see what the size constraints are for your carrier. When I flew with Eric I got a smaller, airline approved pet carrier for him that met my chosen airline’s requirement.

Keep very close watch over your cat while you are packing and preparing to move out of your current home. If possible, even see if you can arrange to have your cat stay with a friend while you are packing. It is very upsetting for a cat to watch while his/her entire domain is being taken apart, and this can cause a great deal of stress. Many cats have run away while their humans were preparing for a move, which is what happened to us.

While packing up the kitchen, my husband inadvertently left the door to the deck open, and Eric slipped out while his back was turned. This was late at night, three days before we left, and all our searching proved to be fruitless. We were extremely fortunate to have dedicated neighbors who staked out the hill behind our house until Eric was found seven weeks later. Many people are not so lucky, please don’t take any chances!

Likewise, be sure that your cat is well secured while your movers are working. If you do not have a place for her to stay, please have her stay in a secure room that she cannot get out of. Also make sure that the movers know she is in there and that they do not open the door. Put a note on the door as a reminder.

If your cat is not microchipped yet, this is a great time to get it done, and be sure to register him with the microchip company. If your cat does happen to get away before or during the move, this will be one good way to advertise that he is missing, and many cats are found every year through their microchips.

Even if you are just moving down the street, keeping a strict watch over your cat before and during the move will help everything go more smoothly and will help to prevent him from getting lost.

See Part 2 of this Series: During The Move

See Part 3 of this Series: Settling In to your New Home

See my Squidoo Lens: How to Move House With Your Cat

By James V Lunden

If you are a cat lover interested in adding a new family member to your household you should consider adopting one of the many RSPCA cats. These adorable creatures need a loving home and will make a great addition to your family.

There are many reasons RSPCA cats are in need of homes. Some of the cats were abandoned, some were neglected and some were from homes that simply could not care for them anymore. Anyone who loves animals knows how sad it is to see an animal in need. All of the cats at the RSPCA need someone like you to adopt them.

There is always the choice to purchase a cat from a breeder. Though that is also a wonderful thing to do, you may wish to first consider adopting one of the wonderful cats at the RSPCA.

A visit to the local RSPCA can help you see the cats they have for adoption. You will undoubtedly look into the eyes of one of these beautiful animals and know that he or she is not just a cat, they are your cat.

The RSPCA is dedicated to protecting animals. All of the cats are in need of a home just like yours. If you are able to provide a forever home, the RSPCA is waiting to hear from you.

Before you pick one of the wonderful cats at the RSPCA you should learn about the different breeds and make sure you are a good match for the breed. Every cat breed has different characteristics. Some require a considerable amount of grooming while others are low maintenance. Some do well in homes with children and other pets and some may not.

Take the time to do some research so you can be prepared to adopt a wonderful cat at the RSPCA.

Find out more on RSPCA cats and read many interesting articles on pet health care.

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